Video of Paul Bradbury Hosting a Dinner on Hvar Island Croatia

two friends on the backpacker road

 

 

Since World Winder just turned two we decided  to feature a video about Hvar Island, the final place that we lived during fourteen months on the travel trail.  Now that we are settling back into life in New York it is easy to forget some of the memories we created on the road with our fledgling website.

Hvar Island in Croatia is a natural wonder by day and boasts a thriving dining and entertainment scene at night.  Here is a video we made for our friend Paul Bradbury of Total-Hvar.  Paul and his website were recommended to us by a fellow travel blogger we’d met at TBEX Girona in the Costa Brava, Spain.  When we lived on Hvar Island, Paul was a great resource and motivator for us as part-time expats and full time adventurers.

Video of Dominga Petrona Jamming in Buenos Aires

Murals and graffiti art are common place in San Telmo.  This was painted a week after we'd moved into our apartment.  The two artisans swept the wall clean and started this!

 

 

Today is World Winder’s second birthday so how about some funky music.  The first time that I saw Dominga Petrona jamming on the streets in Buenos Aires I didn’t have my video camera.  Melissa and I were seven months into our 9 month journey through South America.  Dominga Petrona had secured their usual corner spot in a bustling section of the Microcentro.   I was on a grocery run for a meal that Melissa was concocting in our apartment in the San Telmo district but I still had to linger for a few songs.  We were living as writers in Argentina and I was happy to meet another street band in this music-opolis.

This video contains footage from the next time I saw Dominga Petrona on the same corner.  Our travel buddies Julie and Tim joined us in Buenos Aires for a musical themed week of travel and sidetrips from Argentina‘s autonomous capital city.  At the time of this vlog post the band is rocking on the streets of Rio de Janeiro in Brazil.  Follow this hard working traveling band.

For more information on the band check out Facebook.com/DomingaPetrona or their myspace page.

A Reader Asks About Learning Spanish in Cusco

 

Hi Melissa:

I am a US citizen travelling to Peru for tourism, but am interested in improving my Spanish for a few weeks while I am there. I have researched the topic, and most schools want a down payment in advance to secure a spot- I certainly don’t want to be scammed and send my money to a fraudulent company. I saw you had a great experience with Mundo Antiguo, and would just like to know a bit about them before I sign up!

I was wondering if you did any of the tours, and if you stayed with a host family (if so, how was it?).

If possible, would you know the ins and outs of Spanish schools and their validity?

Thanks so much, Alan*

 *Name Changed

spanish courses in Peru

For over three weeks, we had private lessons together.

Qs from a Reader on his way to study Spanish in Cusco, Peru

Hi Alan!

Thanks for emailing.  My experience with Mundo Antiguo was great.  The facilities are close to the square, clean, and very welcoming. Four or five classrooms are available so several private lessons can happen at once. When I told my teacher Empe that I was a travel blogger, she even took me out for a walking lesson in Cusco.  We visited the artisanal barrio of San Blas!

When we first arrived at the school to inquire about lessons, the owners and I did not talk about money.  Instead they gave me a free half hour lesson in which they checked my comprehension and assessed my ability level–I was an intermediate.

I had a few friends who also went there who said it was wonderful as well.

shopping in cusco

On the way to class, I can buy souvenirs from the square in Cusco

Then the owners arranged the schedule and set me up with a teacher that would work with me for the duration of my course which was 3+ weeks, 5 times a week for two hour private sessions.  My teacher was perfectly matched to my learning style, very serious and task oriented.  Other teachers are more social and seem to go off the book and into what the student wants to talk about.  After my first lesson, the owners asked me several times if I thought my teacher was a good match.  I said without hesitation: Yes!

However, one of my friend’s did not speak up.  He knew that his teacher wasn’t a good fit but didn’t say anything.  Even when I advised him to switch he just “dealt” with it and in my opinion wasted everyone’s time.  You have to speak up to get what you want, especially when the owners insist that it is important for them to know about any problems in the classroom.  They want this to work too which is what I really respected.

spanish school in cusco

Down this shopping arcade, you can find Mundo Antiguo!

I’d say go for Mundo Antiguo.  If you want to reserve in advance, sure.  But it’s not necessary.  In South America, you can just show up and get lessons that day which is how I started.  Neil and I checked about 4 other schools and were REALLY not happy with them.  Mundo Antiguo was best for the people, lesson plans, and price (which I don’t remember but it wasn’t much).  They are very flexible with scheduling and the workbook (included in the price) is great!

In terms of touring, we didn’t do any hiking– or even Machu Picchu!  During our time in Cusco, Neil and I were both ill. Neil’s knee was still not healed from a

best spanish school in peru

Here it is!

previous injury. I unfortunately never acclimated to the altitude and was sick the whole time.   It’s rare but as my cousin who’s a doctor and extreme outdoorist says: it happens. So I really lived like a local and volunteered with Aldea Yanapay. 

For accommodations, I’d recommend staying with them!  Yuri and his mom are awesome!  If possible please use the link at the bottom of the page, I get credit for any referrals.  It was a homestay and we had a mealplan.  The food was great but remember if you geet the mealplan you have to pay for every meal when you stay there.  We ate almost all our meals at the homstay and lost weight.  The family also has a hostel which is really nice and all the volunteers stay there.  It’s more of a social scene so it’s fun!  But we stayed with Yuri’s mother and were still able to have access to the library and common areas at the family’s youth hostel.  It was great for book exchanges too.

For dining out, we’d recommend two restaurants in town that really topped the charts during our trip.  One specializes in French cuisine and is called El Soleil.  The other is modern Peruvian and has amazing alpaca steak!  It’s called Marcelo Batata.

This is my experience of course and others will have their two-cents as well!  Anyone?

 

Historical Tour of Split with Sightseeing Croatia

 

 

old jewish quarter

Stroll past the 3rd oldest synagogue in Europe

Touring a new city is easier with both a native expert and an expat with ties to the community.  During a recent visit to Split, we learned that Sightseeing Croatia offers that opportunity.  Robert Aronson runs the company from Split and publishes a free travel newspaper called Discover Split.  The publication features detailed maps, a calendar of events, and information on services.  You can pick up this free handy guide all over town.

diocletian palace in split croatia

The plaza in Split, Croatia

 

 

 

 

Robert also offers private tours of the city he now calls home.  He always has a local, licensed professional guide on all of his programs.  But when you book a tour, request that Robert comes along for added insight and context.  This way you can experience Split with a local and a seasoned expat/entrepreneur.

tiny walkway in split

The narrowest road in Split

Thanks to an introduction from Paul Bradbury (an inspiring blogger who specializes in Hvar Island) , we met Robert at a local tourism office and began our day tour with a stop at the bronze model of Split.  Cast in dark metal with a lovely patina, the tiny city model represents Diocletian’s palace, the city walls, and the snaking walkways through the city.  Robert pointed at the different sites we’d visit, suggesting that we try to keep the sculpture in mind as we weaved through the complex byways of Split.

Egyptian sphinx

The headless sphinx of Split

 

Highlights of the Split Tour with Sightseeing Croatia

The Old Town of Split possesses an ancestral pizzazz.  Architecture dates back to the times of Roman emperors and earlier.  Little gardens sprout up between marble boulders and placards commemorate famous residents of the city.  Wine shops and lace sellers dot the streets while cafes offer a mid-afternoon break for weary tourists.

model of split croatia

bronze cast “map” of Split

The Oldest Water Fountain in Split

Tucked into an alcove, this lion head’s fountain has brought fresh mountain water to the city for 1800 years.  Water still flows from the toothy jowls and you can fill your water bottle for free.

Let Me Pass Road

The narrowest road in Split, “Let Me Pass” Road is barely the width of a man.  It slinks between buildings and sunny palazzos, opening up to the Temple of Jupiter where an original Egyptian sphinx stills sits on its pedestal.  Her head has been removed as a symbolic Christian gesture against pagan gods.  With all the fame that Split receives, many archaeological pieces that have survived since Diocletian’s time have been sheltered indoors.  This one has not been.  So enjoy it now.  Take a picture!

stone wall Split

The wall around Diocletian’s Palac

Green Spaces Amongst History

While Split has its fair share of cruise ship tourists and independent travelers, life in Split remains family-oriented.  Young workers go home for long lunches.  Some shops close for the winter months, while others stay open to cater to tourists   While Neil and I loved the deserted streets during the off-season, we still caught the flavor of life.  Laundry hung across lines in green squares.  Coffee breaks seemed almost mandatory with men and women chatting away throughout the afternoon.  This was one of my favorite parts of Split; its beating heart.  People still hold true to their culture and traditions which make this city vastly different from famed Dubrovnik.

Seafood Lunch Just like Locals

Before parting ways with Robert, he steered us toward a little restaurant by the port that served two of Split’s famous dishes: black rice and prawn soup.  With a cold Lasko beer, we settled back on a wooden bench, digging into delicious food as a light breeze rolled past and Split began to slip into winter’s slow season.  We can’t wait to return to Split and take one of Sightseeing Croatia’s tours in the warmer months.

We’d like to thank Robert for showing us a small fraction of his city.  From the port to Diocletian’s eastern gate entry, the day was wonderful!  If you’d like to contact Robert for your own tour, check out his website for more tourist information on Split.  Remember to ask him to join his guides on your tour.

 

Where to Watch the Superbowl in Cusco

drinking beers and football

 

 

Good news for sports crazed NFL football fans traveling in Peru.  It’s possible to catch the upcoming divisional playoffs, conference championships, and this year’s Super Bowl in cities across the country.  Four teams rested last weekend, having secured first round byes during the wild card round of the 2012 NFL Playoffs.  They’ll each host a game this weekend.  When in Cusco it’s possible to find a great spot to catch some games.

 

drinking beers and football

Catch the games in Cusco and try a Cusquena beer.

Where to watch NFL football in Cusco, Peru

A year ago, Melissa and I were traveling through Peru for two months.  We explored the ruins of Kuelap, rode a dune buggy in the desert and had a ceviche making lesson.  Then we concentrated on something real important.  Where would we live during crunch time of the NFL season?  We decided to live at a homestay in Cusco that we found on AirB&B, took Spanish lessons with Mundo Antiguo, and volunteered for Aldea Yanapay.

On the weekends we’d head to Cusco’s Plaza de Armas.  Many sports pubs dot this historic spot.  Norton Rat’s Tavern, Paddy’s Irish Bar, and The Real McCoy were our favorite bars to meet fellow volunteers or travel buddies who were passing through Cusco while Melissa and I lived there.  I gave our new friends lessons on the basics of football and understanding how to watch the NFL.

 

football helmets

Catch these teams at Cusco’s pubs.

Watch NFL playoffs at Norton Rat’s Tavern

Norton Rat’s Tavern is by far the largest of the sports pubs we frequented.  They have dartboards, and at least one pool table, so there are games to play during halftime.  Norton Rat’s Tavern is located at Loreto 115 on the second floor and offers a full menu of bar favorites and a wrap around oval shaped bar.  Televisions are scattered throughout Nortons Rat’s which is decorated with colorful sports memorabilia.  An outdoor balcony offers panoramic views of the Plaza de Armas and the small roads that lead to the steps of the Cusco Cathedral.

 

Line up the pints at Paddy’s during the half time show

Paddy’s Irish Bar is the highest Irish owned pub in the world.  The altitude in Cusco can take your breath away and effects from alcohol are magnified at high elevation.  So be careful to drink slowly.  Paddy’s is at the corner of the Plaza de Armas at Calle Trinufo 124 on the second floor.  The bar is sectioned into two rooms with televisions scattered around.  They boast curries, Irish Breakfasts, and shepherd’s pie to go with your Cusquena beer or Jameson on the rocks.

 

nfl playoffs in peru

Backpacking in Peru didn’t prevent us from catching the end of the football season.

Chow down on dinner specials for a tailgate at The Real McCoy

According to their facebook page this restaurant will be closed until March 1st.  The Real McCoy is a treat for hungry stomachs and travelers who need information on Cusco and beyond.  The English pub has a varied menu which kept us coming back to their dining room.  The Real McCoy is located at Calle Plateros 326 on the second floor (you’ll have to go through an outdoor market).  They probably won’t have the NFL action on when you arrive but ask the friendly staff to find the game on their satellite television.  They were able to find me the Baltimore Ravens playoff game last year and I watched Ray Rice run all over the field as I ate a hearty roast dinner with trimmings.  The restaurant hosts a frequent pub quiz and offers a book exchange and newspapers to read.

All three of these pubs were located near Cusco’s Plaza de Armas where Melissa and I spent one crazy New Year’s Eve.  They are all located on the second floor and have English speaking staff.  Click here for information on a pub in Lima to watch the NFL games.