A World Winder exclusive by guest blogger Maia Horsager
The clouds completely surrounded us and we could no longer see up let alone what it was we were descending into. I took a short break to breathe the misty air, cool my sunburned skin, and snap a photo of the dewdrops resting on Leo’s hair. We knew the Urubamba River was somewhere below us at the bottom of the Colca Canyon, but the thickness of the cloud that immersed us robbed us of almost every sense. Our descent into another world had begun. The only thing we could do properly was smell the sweet flowers and fresh grass before a tour guide with his crew from France marched smartly by and we hastily gathered our things to follow them onto the proper trail. “Follow us!” He said, “the party is down below!”
Dew collected in Leo's hair at The Colca Canyon in Peru.
He was, of course, referring to the New Year’s Eve party to welcome in 2012 and so I was slightly disappointed and we let them carry on ahead—which didn’t take long at their brisk pace and my lumbering one.
For the end of 2011 I needed something symbolic and meaningful. With all the 2012 end (or beginning) of the world talk surrounding me, I decided to just get away from all the parties and hype and spend a few days welcoming in the new year by being out in nature. So, my friend Leo and I decided to go to Arequipa and conquer the Colca Canyon, which some guidebooks claim to be the world’s deepest, and definitely one of Peru’s best hiking areas.
Our journey to Arequipa was done on a whim and we quickly learned that it is easier to plan ahead a little bit, no matter how much you just want to go with the flow. Luckily, being flexible is my strong suit, and we found ways to laugh at ourselves and the mistakes we made along the way.
Communing with nature as 2011 ended
When we finally arrived in the canyon we found a nice little shop that would take care of our excess luggage for two days while we hiked down and back again. The lady only charged five soles (US$2) and gave us advice on how and where to hike as a bonus. We brought our tiny tent and sleeping bags to save money and connect more with nature on this spiritual adventure. Unfortunately, nature decided it was really time to bond and we got rained on every day, therefore abandoning our tent plan and staying in hostels for only 10 soles a night (US$4). Not too bad.
Despite our random plan changes we were very content to just be in the canyon, enjoying the foreign scenery and getting plenty of fresh air. We hiked slowly, taking in the views, stopping frequently to take pictures once we emerged beneath the clouds, and making way for the native Peruvians flying down (or up) past us at incredible paces.
The most visually stimulating part of the trek for me was the incredible variety of earth: I saw every color imaginable in the rocks, dirt, and land around me. When it rained the colors flowed down amongst us as if from a painter’s palette. The blue, purple, green and pink rocks were speckled with white and instantly reminded me of pictures of supernovas or galaxies far far away. It only made the sense of being in another world all the stronger.
Donkeys navigate the rugged paths at Colca Canyon.
Hiking without a guide is quite possible in the canyon (see below for tips). As Spanish speakers we received plenty of advice from the locals. The hospitality was clear on New Year’s Eve when we were invited for champagne and 1am fireworks in a town of 60 residents. We decided to temporarily break our fast from alcohol, meat and processed foods for the occasion. Spirituality can incorporate the occasional glass of champagne, I decided. As we sat outside in the complete and sudden darkness that occurs in canyons we gazed around, waiting for fireworks, and realized nature was providing us with the most original fireworks on the last night of the year: fireflies. Hundreds of fireflies suddenly appeared, providing a silhouette of the mountain in front of us and giving me a very fulfilling sense of peace with the world beneath the fog.
Two days later we emerged from the mist into 2012, back on top of the canyon. Looking down on the clouds beneath us I was struck with a very distinct feeling of having conquered the canyon, come to terms with 2011 and set the framework for an incredible 2012, with or without the apocalypse.
Travel Tips for Colca Canyon
- Buses leave for Arequipa from Cusco by 9pm, and the seats fill up, so buy in advance
- Expect to pay between 30 and 60 soles (US$11 and US$22) for one way (Cusco-Arequipa) depending on the quality and comfort you desire
- Buses from Arequipa to Cabanconde (where we started the trek) leave at 3pm, 11pm, 1am, 4am; the cost is approximately 25 soles (US$9)
- Cabanaconde is an hour and a half further into the canyon from Chivay, which is a good city to stay a few days and do day trips or an organized tour
You can hike and relax at Colca Canyon with or without a guide.
Hiking Colca Canyon Safely without a Guide
There have been some recent concerns about safety in the canyon, especially for tourists who decided to go without a tour (like us), but we never encountered any problems. Just be travel smart and don’t ever hike completely alone.
- Ask the locals for tips about where to go
- Follow the marked trail
- Wear good shoes and go slowly when it’s wet
- Bring basic first aid equipment
- Travel with camping supplies: flashlight, sleep sack, water cleaner, etc
- But don’t weigh down your bag too much, ups and downs are easier with a lighter pack
Maia Horsager is a chronic wanderer from Minnesota, currently based out of her backpack in Peru. She loves to discover new places, but not just pass through. She prefers to really get to know a place. Maia worked for eight months as a bilingual program coordinator for volunteers at a non-profit in Cusco, Peru. On the side she has been a blogger/photographer and has written a few articles here and there. Now she is going freelance and will continue to travel and work in South America. She’ll work for food and stay, trade her skills to travel, and is eager to learn anything new wherever she wanders.
sending...