Cuenca is fast becoming an expat mecca for Americans looking for affordable living overseas, whether it be for retirement, gap year, medical tourism, or general nomadism. Colonial and clean, Cuenca is in the southern hub of commerce and culture in Ecuador. If you’re not flying here from the capital than you will have to pass through the highlands or along the coast. Many travelers find themselves distracted on route to Cuenca. They extend their stays in tempting places such as the surfside in Montanita, crafts towns like Otavalo, and spa retreats of Banos de Santa Agua. So while Cuenca may be an 8-hour bus ride from Banos in the middle of the high sierras, just remember the ride is only US$8 and the scenery is unparalleled.
Colonial churches are on almost every block in downtown Cuenca
What To Do in Cuenca
For Neil and I, restaurants sit high on our travel priority list. We love small cafes like Cafe Austria and ethnic foods from Cafe Moliendo. In Cuenca, you can spend all day enjoying affordable set meals called “menus” in these eateries or you can splurge on Argentinian steak in 5-star locales.
Little girl chasing the birds in Cuenca
Once you have your fill of feed, churches and other archaeological sites are good ways to burn off those Ecuadorian calories. The old and the new churches are centrally located while a cluster of museums sits on the western side of town. Everything shuts down on Sunday, including the sale of alcohol. So plan accordingly and stock up in your hostel.
If you have two days or two weeks in Cuenca, you should definitely block off some time for simple moments.
Take It Slow in Cuenca
You’re not in Quito anymore. You’re not rushing out to the surf or trying to catch a connecting bus out to Perdenales. This is Cuenca and here the culture enables you to enjoy life at a slower pace. In this region, Spanish dialect is considered more “sing song” where the R’s roll all day long and the cadence of speech is fluid and expressive. Life in general is lived this way…for expats living off their retirement savings or a 30-something starting an import/export business. Living in Cuenca means living an enjoyable life.
A grandmother feeds the birds in the plaza outside the church
During our 7-night stay in Cuenca at the Hostal Capitolio, Neil and I took it slow. We walked in the mornings before the rainstorms overtook the afternoon sky. We ate ice cream in real glass dishes while people watching. And we sat in the central plaza, watching an indigenously dressed woman walk beside her hip hop grandkids.
On one afternoon we walked to the Iglesia Sebastian where a little girl was chasing a flock of pigeons. In a fresh red dress, she swung her arms wildly trying to catch a bird and they flew and clustered in the air, half wanted to leave but ultimately were drawn to a Cuencana grandmother tossing birdseed into the air. With Neil and our friend Daniel, we sat for an hour watching as the little girls raced around and the grandmother tossed dried maize in the air. Cuenca may offer many attractions but for me, I enjoyed watching how the non-tourists live, how they spent their days, and enjoyed each other’s company against the beautiful backdrop of a colonial city.
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Thanks for the post. Ecuador is on our list for Central and South America, so is good to know there are some fantastic places to see and also relax and experience the culture.
Absolutely! If Cuenca is on your list, there is a small, small sweet shop that sells the BEST macaroons, made with condensed melt and pure heaven