On the internet and on the Gringo Trail, people have asked me about safety in Ecuador. Is it dangerous? Will I get mugged, robbed, killed? In the guidebooks and discussion forums, the crime news can be overwhelming. There are people who have been robbed on their front door and raped 2 blocks from their house. Neil and I met a couple who were sprayed with feces, and during the ensuing confusion (and disgust) three people tried to rob them. In Otavalo, I met a woman who, after 15 years of living in the country, was robbed on the bus from Quito. In Cuenca, I met one man (an army veteran) who had been robbed at gun point and then jumped by a group of locals within seven days of each other. So while safety is an issue in Ecuador, this aspect is a constant concern in world travel in general. That being said, here’s the truth about travel safety and how we dealt with it.
Cuenca has beautiful boulevards and romantic side streets.
Paranoia? I Prefer Constant Vigilance
The fact of the matter is I’m from New York and I’m the first person to say “I don’t trust nobody!” Not saying that I’m paranoid but I don’t like dark side streets or ATMs off the main drag. My hand is physically resting on my bags during bus rides and a carabiner clamps my purse to a chair while I eat dinner. While some people say I am paranoid, I prefer the words of JK Rowling’s Mad-Eye Moody; I practice constant vigilance. I travel in groups when I can. I don’t carry much cash on me. I keep small bills and coins in my pocket so that I don’t have to pull out my money wallet. And I am now thoroughly in the habit of checking over my shoulder regularly. So while I do consider myself lucky, I also think this aspect of my personality has contributed to safer travels in Ecuador and Peru.
Banos is 3.5 hours south of Quito and is one of the safest towns in Ecuador
Stay Safe and Use Common Sense in South America
ATMs: I use ATMs (usually in the mornings) that are attached to actual banks and preferably inside a guarded alcove. Once I make a withdrawal, which during long-term travel, is never less than US$100, I make a beeline back to my hotel and lock it away. Carrying large sums of cash on you, makes you a target. So take it out and stash it away.
Nightlife: Take official taxis. In Ecuador, call for one. In Peru, look for the official blue sticker on the side of the cab. Lock the doors and don’t accept additional passengers off the street. Travel in groups and never walk home alone, even if it is just a few blocks. Cabs are US$2, so do it. Don’t leave your drink unattended or accept them from strangers.
Bus Rides: Check low-value luggage below and ask the porter to keep an eye on your pack. Bring valuables on board with you. If the driver asks to take your bag, just say “arriba” and point to the seats. He’ll understand. Inside the bus, never put your bag on the top rack or even at your feet. The optimal place is in your lap. If someone leans over you to open the window, just keep your hand on top of your bag. If someone asks for the time, don’t be ashamed to decline assistance. On overnight buses, Neil and I use carabiners to link our bags together and to the seat. Brightly-colored ones signal would-be thieves that we mean business.
A small town with a big party scene, Montanita is a fun seaside spot for relaxing
Walking Tours: Always ask the hotel desk and tourist office about walking around town. What streets should you avoid? Until what time is it safe to walk around? Are there certain trams/buses to avoid? In terms of hikes, I felt very safe walking around Otavalo and the tourist office encouraged our explorations. However in Vilcabamba, we were advised to stay clear of one specific trail. We did and all ended well, for us.
Overall, remember that the average person in Ecuador makes about US$400 a month. So when you bust out that iPod Touch or a crumpled wad of green backs, people will notice–sometimes the wrong type of people. Stay humble and don’t give anyone a reason to hurt you. Don’t walk home drunk and don’t leave your bag on the counter because you’re “just going to look over here for a second”. During our 3 months in Ecuador, I felt the most safe in Banos and Montanita while Quito and Guayaquil felt the most intimidating to me. Even locals there advised us to take care with our belongings. If something arises, don’t hold back your goods and cash. Give them over and walk away with your life. As I tell friends along the trail: “It just aint worth it, kid.”
sending...
As a fellow New Yorker who travels I think you’re spot on, Melissa. (I have been enjoying your writing, following your links from LinkedIn.) I’ve been to many a place where travels all around were being ripped off and in each case, the people let the bag out of their sight. A few times I didn’t even realize people were trying to scam me because of how I naturally acted defensively. (I was always polite, never offensive, but always careful.)
A New Yorker advising people to take cars… funny as taking a cab is contrary to all I know from NYC, but the way you put it, I believe it makes good sense and I will remember this as I finally get to visit Ecuador.
Keep up the terrific writing!
Hi Deborah! Hope you’re celebrating the Giants as we all are in NYC. Thank you so much for following the writing. We are trying to be honest and fair and realistic about long term travel. Of course, safety is super important–and closely followed by not getting ripped off. But I agree that neither of these aspects should deter world travel.
I have to laugh when you mentioned taking cabs. I hate cabs, would rather walk from place to place (which is what we’ve ALWAYS done before). But in Ecuador especially in the big cities… we suck up our pride and hale the cabbies. This is hard for us. We are used to walking 8 hours in a day (helps burn the extra sake at lunch:)
When will you be in Ecuador? Where are you headed?
Thanks so much for your post, Melissa. I really appreciate the honest advice and will forward your link to my travelling companion for our upcoming trip to South Am as she tends to be a bit more courageous and nonchalant about travel risks than I might be.
Hi Doreen! I’d curb the more risky travel habits in the big cities: Quito and Guayaquil. In Guayaquil, I immediately felt shaded-out. So, Neil and I were literally in the city for 5 hours, enough to arrange our overnight bus. But, I will say that Guayaquil has the best bus terminal in Ecuador. It’s a mall, arcade, and transport hub.
Thank you for a great, honest post! I’m tentatively planning a trip to Ecuador this year or next, and I appreciate this info and will act accordingly. It won’t be too tough for me–except for the caribeeners, I pretty much do everything you describe. Even when I’m traveling in the States, I’m one of those people who double-wraps the strap of her bag around her ankle in the airport and the train station and even in restaurants.
Hey Liz, Glad to hear you’re coming south of the equator. Melissa does a good job of explaining how it is. What we really noticed in Ecuador was that the majority of people who did experience trouble were intoxicated (70%). Others were targets because of their bags or location generally. But seriously after 98 days in country, we loved Ecuador and are planning a return in the spring.
I’d love to know what you think of a woman travelling alone, in case I/she doesn’t meet someone with whom to travel in Ecuador.
Hey Deborah! Solo travelers are extremely common in Ecuador (and the world over). Of the solo travelers that we’ve met, I’d say over 60% are female. Of course, you have to use your wits just like everyone else but off the top of my head, I can think of 4 women who struck out on their own. Two were long term expats, living and exploring in Ecuador. Two others just traveling through on their way to Colombia. They caught buses off the Panamericana Highway and did all the sights by themselves. It’s cool and they REALLY loved the life
Also, solo women travelers are more likely to tag along with other travel groups. Neil and I often pick up travel buddies. In Vietnam, Thailand, Ecuador, Peru, and in Bolivia, we strike up conversations with solo women travelers and end up sharing the road for a week or two. Our friend Marie (from Quebec) just left us. We traveled with her from Copacabana to La Paz to the Death Road. Good times! I’d say, go for it!!