Colorful Parade in Latacunga during the Mama Negra Festival
A procession choked the narrow cobbled streets of Latacunga, Ecuador. Rose petals showered the statues of the Virgin and Baby Jesus. Thousands of people followed. Stores emptied. Streets were deserted. Every color burst across town from women’s flowing skirts to men’s ponchos to children’s costumes. On September 23-24, they celebrate Latacunga’s patron saint that safeguards the city from Cotopaxi Volcano. For over two days, the city’s energy and spirit turbines into one of the best festivals in South America. It is the Festival de la Virgen de Las Mercedes or—in local terms—La Fiesta de Mama Negra.
At 9am, Neil and I departed from Banos’ bus terminal and took the 2-hour ride north with two German
Neil and I were up early for the festivities during Mama Negra and were well rewarded for it
friends we’d made at our hotel, La Casa Verde. Each fare was $2. We’d our assigned seats and plenty of room to recline and relax. Our friend Sally gave our fourth companion Andreas a hard time. He’d placed his luggage above his head—a move that beckons thieves to relieve travelers of their belongings. But Andreas didn’t care. With his classic shrug, he said: “If they want, they take. I can buy more.”
Neil and I marveled how the man could carry six weeks of gear in one school-sized knapsack! Sally shook her head.
On the streets of Latacunga, the drums and trumpets blared. The cheers and applause ricocheted off buildings. And through the city streets, a celebratory parade swept everyone into jubilation. At noon, the statue of the Virgin and Babe arrived in the town square. Women kissed her robes. Flags waved. Fireworks
The Virgin and Child, after the Parade of Mama Negra
cracked the sky. And the bands struck up their beats in three corners of the plaza. Horses bearing “Mama Negra” trotted into the crowd as she sprayed the spectators with liquor, a purifying rite during the celebrations. Snack vendors hawked savory treats alongside cotton-candy sellers and beer stalls. The day was in full swing.
After a brief (and unsatisfying) lunch, our foursome rejoined the festivities. A parade snaked down the streets, a parade without end. For four hours, we watched. Men carried altars comprised of roasted pigs, chickens, and cuy—all ornamented with no less than 10 bottles of whiskey and rum. Black-masked men carried buckets full of viscous spirits meant to cleanse the body. Ladle by ladle, they worked through the crowd and offered giant gulps of Ecuadorian moonshine to the people. Local matriarchs had more style. They carried small shot glasses to parcel out portions of Grants Whiskey.
Spiritual Cleansing During Mama Negra Festival
Everyone celebrated. Small boys carried miniature altars on their backs. Costumed teens danced with colorfully robed girls. Men whistled and their women hooted back. Skirts twirled and trumpets swung left to right. Men dressed as Mama Negra squirted liquor into the crowd. Others in striped masks grabbed on-lookers for impromptu cleansings of their souls. They brushed branches down the length of their bodies and sprayed (ok, spit) alcohol from their lips onto people. The parade continued and continued and continued. Each ensemble of participants had its own style with personalized choreography and musicians.
One man pulled Sally into the fray. Another handed Neil a doll that I think was bad luck since every other Ecuadorian ran away from the scary looking man. Andreas bobbed his head to the music and cracked open
Live Music During the Mama Negra Festival
another beer (sold for $1 on the street). The party raged without end, past sunset into nightfall and despite the black clouds of a thunderstorm.
Note: La Fiesta Mama Negra in Latacunga Ecuador is celebrated twice: once during September 23-24 and then again, on a bigger scale on November 11. Come early and bring your dancing shoes! We’ve more pictures of Fiesta Mama Negra and a video from Latacunga of the festivities too!
How to Get to Fiesta Mama Negra: The festival takes place in Latacunga. From Quito, several bus companies route through the city. The ride is about 1-2 hours. From Banos, take any Quito-bound bus for about 2 hours. Tickets run about US$1 per hour of travel. Taxis are available from the Latacunga Bus Stop into the city center.
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You are an iincredible writer! You take the reader into the experience — I could feel the excitement and just about taste, smell, and hear the goings on. What a great escape! The pictures are crystal clear, brightly colored and let us imagine we are part of the adventure… Keep visiting places and sharing your stories… People who may not have the where-with-all to make such trips can feel like they are having a holiday and escape the problems of their lives at the present moment. And when they can make the trip, your advice is so thorough.
Thank you so much World Winder… Where are you taking me next?
Thank you so much! Neil and I have such great adventures and World Winder is a good place to share. Thanks for stopping by. We’re on the coast of Ecuador right now, enjoying the sun. Soon, we’ll be settling for a month in Banos, back in the cool mountain air and hot hot hot springs!